Treskavica: the mountain of lakes above Trnovo

Each of the Sarajevo mountains has its own character: Bjelašnica is Olympic, Igman gentle, Trebević urban. Treskavica is wild. South of Trnovo, an hour's drive from the city, rises a massif with several peaks above 2,000 metres, deep valleys and — what makes it special — four glacial lakes hidden in hollows beneath the ridge. Hikers call it "the mountain of lakes", and its greatest asset is that it is almost never crowded.

The lakes

• Veliko Lake (about 1,560 m) — the largest and most accessible, in a wide grassy basin beneath the peaks. The classic goal of a day hike and a place to camp.
• Crno Lake (about 1,650 m) — dark, ringed by rock and Bosnian pine, about an hour further. The most photogenic of them all.
• Bijelo and Platno Lakes — smaller and shallower, shrinking in summer. Part of longer loops across the ridge.

The lakes are usually visited in a loop linking Veliko and Crno, with the option of extending to a summit.

Photo: Ingo Mehling, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Approaches and huts

Treskavica has two classic bases, both mountain huts:

Javorov do (1,250 m) — reached from Dejčići or Trnovo; this is the usual starting point for the lakes. From the hut to Veliko Lake allow 2 to 2.5 hours of climbing through forest and across pastures, and about another hour to Crno.

Vrela in Tušila (1,200 m) — a hut known for its home cooking, on the western side of the mountain where the Rakitnica river is born between Treskavica and Bjelašnica. From Tušila you head for the western summits or towards Lukomir.

More on huts — how to book, what to bring — in our guide to mountain huts.

The summits

The highest point of Treskavica is Mala Ćaba (2,088 m), alongside Đokin toranj, Velika Ćaba and Pašina planina. From Veliko Lake to Mala Ćaba is about 2 hours more of steeper climbing over grass and rock. The full round Javorov do – lakes – summit – Javorov do is a serious 8 to 9 hour day in the K3 category; the lakes alone are a pleasant K2 hike.

Photo: Martin Brož, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0

Why marked trails only

During the war Treskavica was a line of separation, which is why it has remained so wild — and why you do not step off the markers here. The hiking societies have cleared and marked the trails in use, but beyond them areas are still suspected of mines. Concretely: no shortcuts across the pastures, no "just up to that viewpoint", and respect every warning sign. With that rule, Treskavica is as safe a mountain as any other.

Practical tips

• Season: late May to October. The lakes are at their best in June, when they are full and the pastures are in flower.
• Water: unlike Prenj, Treskavica has springs by the lakes — but none on the ridge.
• Weather: Treskavica catches clouds from the south; fog on the ridge is common and arrives fast.
• Sleeping: camping by Veliko Lake is allowed and popular; bring a sleeping bag for cold nights.

Treskavica is one of the best answers to "where to go that is not Bjelašnica". Sarajevo societies run trips to the lakes all summer — see what is on offer on Kojeza.