Lukomir: the highest village in Bosnia and the trail above the Rakitnica canyon
Kojeza
On the south-eastern slopes of Bjelašnica, at around 1,470 metres, lies Lukomir — the highest permanently inhabited village in Bosnia and Herzegovina. A few dozen stone houses with shingle roofs stand on the very edge of the Rakitnica canyon, with the peaks of Visočica rising behind them. There is no asphalt, no shop and, for a good part of the year, no residents: when the first snow falls the road closes and Lukomir is left alone until spring.
A village that stopped in time
Lukomir is a shepherds' village that lived off sheep for centuries. The houses are built of stone, with roofs of wooden shingles or clay tiles, and the layout follows the slope. At the entrance to the village is a necropolis of stećci, medieval tombstones from the 14th and 15th centuries — proof that people lived here long before today's houses. The residents, mostly elderly, return with their livestock in summer, and a few families offer home-cooked food and lodging to hikers.
What makes Lukomir special is not only the architecture but the location: the village stands on the lip of the canyon through which the Rakitnica flows towards the Neretva, with cliffs dropping hundreds of metres. The view from the edge of the village in late afternoon is something you do not forget.
Photo: Kathleen Franklin, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
The trail from Umoljani
The most beautiful way to reach Lukomir is on foot from Umoljani, a village on the other side of the ridge. The marked trail is about 8 kilometres long and takes 3 to 3.5 hours one way, with roughly 500 metres of total ascent. The first section crosses pastures above Umoljani, then climbs to a ridge from which you first see the canyon, and the last hour follows the rim of the canyon itself — this is the part people come for.
- Return: the same way, or by organised transport from Lukomir if you are with a group. The full loop on foot is a demanding 6 to 7 hour day.
- Water: there are no reliable springs on the trail. Carry at least 2 litres.
- Navigation: the ridge is open and confusing in fog; the markers are good, but a GPS track helps.
Photo: NH53, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
Access by car
From Sarajevo it is about an hour and a half to Lukomir: on asphalt via Hadžići and Šabići to Umoljani, then on a gravel road to the village. The road is passable for ordinary cars in summer if you drive slowly; in winter it is closed. Many people combine the two: drive to Umoljani, walk to Lukomir and return with a car waiting there — or the other way round.
When to go
- June – September: the village is alive, several households serve food (pies baked under a sač, kajmak, cheese), the pastures are green.
- October: the clearest views and autumn colours in the canyon, but the village empties. Bring everything you need.
- November – April: the road is under snow. Winter Lukomir is only possible with an experienced guide and snowshoes.
Practical tips
- Lukomir is a living village, not a museum. Ask before photographing people, do not walk into yards, and buy something from the locals — it is the best way to keep the village alive.
- There is lodging in the mountain house and with a few families; for an overnight stay, arrange in advance. See the mountain huts directory.
- The trail above the canyon is not for small children or anyone with a fear of heights — it is not technically hard, but it is exposed.
Lukomir is one of the most popular trips run by Sarajevo hiking societies, so almost every weekend from May to October there is an organised departure. Browse tours on Kojeza and leave the transport and navigation to a guide.
