Vlašić: guide to the plateau and the climb to Paljenik

Vlašić is a mountain everyone in Bosnia knows, and many have never seen above the ski resort. Above Travnik, in the very centre of the country, rises one of the most extensive plateaus in Bosnia and Herzegovina — rolling pastures at 1,300 to 1,700 metres, broken by sinkholes, shepherds' huts and the flocks of sheep that gave Vlašić its name and its fame. Above all of it stands Paljenik (1,943 m), a summit from which, on a clear day, you see Bjelašnica, Vranica, Čvrsnica and Kozara at the same time.

The mountain of sheep and cheese

For centuries Vlašić was the summer pasture for flocks from all of central Bosnia, and out of that heritage came Vlašić cheese — a white sheep's cheese aged in brine, still made in the huts on the plateau and sold along the road from Travnik to Babanovac. In summer you meet flocks of several hundred sheep on the pastures, Tornjak shepherd dogs and huts where you can buy cheese, kajmak and milk. It is as much a part of the experience as the summit.

Photo: Wikimedia Commons, public domain

The climb to Paljenik

The starting point is Babanovac, the tourist and ski centre at about 1,260 metres, reached from Travnik by a paved road (half an hour's drive). From Babanovac a marked trail crosses pastures and gentle rises towards the ridge and the summit; allow 2.5 to 3 hours to Paljenik and about 2 hours back. The climb has no technical sections and falls into the K2/T1 category — long but simple, ideal for a first summit above 1,900 metres.

On Paljenik itself there is a weather station, and the view is one of the widest in the country because Vlašić stands alone, with no higher mountains around it.

Walks across the plateau

Vlašić may be the best mountain in the country for those who want a day in the open rather than a climb:

The loop around Babanovac — an easy trail across pastures and past huts, 2–3 hours, suitable for families.
The Devečani cliffs — impressive rock walls on the southern side, above Turbe, with a viewpoint over the Lašva valley. Reached by a shorter walk from the plateau.
Galica and Opaljenik — smaller summits along the ridge for extending the Paljenik hike.

Photo: Julian Nyča, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Practical tips

Season: May to October for hiking; in winter Vlašić is a ski resort and winter walks across the plateau need snowshoes.
Weather: the plateau is open and without shelter. Wind and fog are common even in summer; in fog it is easy to lose your bearings on the featureless pastures, so stick to the markers.
Water: there are springs and huts on the plateau, but none on the ridge towards Paljenik. Carry 1.5 to 2 litres.
Dogs: Tornjaks guard the flocks. Do not approach the sheep, do not run, and let the dogs escort you off their patch — they are harmless if you keep your distance.
Cheese: buy it at a hut, not at a roadside stall. Bring cash and a bag.

Getting there

Travnik is an hour and a half's drive from Sarajevo; from there to Babanovac another half hour. Vlašić is therefore one of the few mountains in the country that fits into a day trip from Sarajevo, Zenica or Banja Luka — with the climb, lunch at a hut and a return before dark.

Societies from Travnik and the surrounding area run trips to Paljenik throughout the season, often combined with a visit to the huts. Browse tours on Kojeza and leave room for cheese in your pack.