Autumn around Sarajevo: five hikes for the best October colours
Kojeza
Summer is for high ridges, but autumn is for the forest — and Sarajevo is a city where the forest starts at the end of the tram line. From mid-September until the first snow, the beech woods on Trebević, Igman and Bjelašnica run through the whole palette from yellow to deep red, the days are still long enough, and the morning air is clean and cold. Here are five hikes, ordered from easiest to hardest, that are better in autumn than at any other time of year.
1. Trebević: cable car up, walk down
The easiest way into autumn. The Trebević cable car takes you from Bistrik to Vidikovac in a few minutes, and from there a marked trail leads through the forest to the summit of Trebević (1,627 m) — about an hour and a half of gentle climbing. On the way you pass the old Olympic bobsleigh track from 1984, now overgrown and covered in street art. For the descent take the trail towards Brus or return to the cable car; either fits into half a day.
If you want to stretch it out, the Trebević mountain hut is about 30 minutes' walk from the cable car and a perfect spot for tea before heading back to the city.
2. Skakavac waterfall from Nahorevo
At 98 metres Skakavac is one of the highest waterfalls in the country, and in autumn — after the first rains — it gets back the water it loses over summer. The loop from Nahorevo takes 3 to 4 hours and runs through beech and fir forest the whole way. The trail is well marked and at its best in October, when the forest around the falls turns yellow.
3. Igman: Veliko Polje and Hrasnički stan
The Igman plateau is the quietest place near the city in autumn. From Veliko Polje (the Olympic ski jumps) an easy trail crosses meadows and forest to Hrasnički stan, a mountain hut open all year where you can have lunch. The walk has almost no climbing and is ideal for families and beginners; for the way back you can loop round via Malo Polje.
4. Bjelašnica: from Stanari to Krvavac
For those who want a summit. From the Stanari mountain hut (1,550 m) on the northern slopes of Bjelašnica the trail climbs to Krvavac (2,062 m) and on along the ridge to the summit of Bjelašnica itself (2,067 m). Allow 5 to 6 hours for the whole hike. In October there is often frost and wind on the ridge — hat, gloves and a windproof jacket are mandatory, and the first snow usually arrives in late October or November.
5. Umoljani and Lukomir before winter
Lukomir, the highest permanently inhabited village in the country, empties out in autumn: with the first cold spells the residents move down to the valley and the village stays almost deserted until spring. The trail from Umoljani above the Rakitnica canyon takes about 3 hours one way and in autumn offers the clearest views of the year. The start is in Umoljani (about an hour and a half by car from Sarajevo) and the trail is marked the whole way.
Autumn tips
- Days are shorter: at the end of October, after the clocks go back, the sun sets around 16:40. Start early and always carry a headlamp.
- Layers: a morning at 1,000 metres can be at freezing point and noon at 15 °C. Three layers (base layer, fleece, windproof shell) cover everything.
- Leaves are slippery: wet leaves over roots and rock are one of the most common causes of falls in autumn. Poles help.
- Fog: autumn fog on Igman and Bjelašnica can hang around all day. Stick to the markers and do not shortcut across the meadows.
Most Sarajevo hiking societies run their busiest programme in October. Check the current tours on Kojeza and book a place before the leaves come down.
